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Bahariya Circa World War II: From English House to English Patient
But beyond occasional acts of sabotage from the local Egyptian nationalists pouring sugar into the tanks of their vehicles, for example the Commonwealth forces stationed at the English House never saw any action: the presence of the post caused Rommel to avoid Bahariya completely. The British made good on their deal and Idris returned to a joyous Libya, declaring an independent state in 1951. Eighteen years later, Idris was overthrown by Muammar al Qaddafi and died in 1983, once more in Cairene exile. Today, the only remains of English House are sun-baked stones that look down upon the oasis. But other detritus of the war remain in Bahariya. Peter Wirth, a local hotel owner and tour guide intensely fervent of all things Saharan, retraced the steps of Ladislaus Almásy, the English Patient of the book and film, and brought back artifacts of Almásy's travels.
Those familiar with the story of The English Patient may be surprised to learn that he was a real person. An explorer fascinated with tales of lost oases and desert lore, Almásy's most famous discovery is that of Wadi Sura and the Cave of Swimmers, located near the Gilf Kebir in Egypt's southwestern corner. It isn't a deep cavern system as depicted in the movie more like an overhang but its prehistoric paintings of swimming people testify to a past that was not as arid and dry as today. When war broke out, the Hungarian-born Almásy joined his country's air force and eventually wound up teaching desert survival in Rommel's Afrika Korps. His greatest mission was the smuggling of two German spies from southern Libya through the Western Desert to the Kharga Oasis. There, Almásy turned back and the spies continued toward Cairo. Even though the two were eventually captured, Almásy's feat landed him in the annals of desert adventure. Some fifty-odd years later, Wirth backtracked along Almásy's path and found the camps and fuel depots made during his crossing. He also found German fuel cans and even discarded wine bottles and cigarette packs. All date to 1942 the year Almásy made his trek. "I know which roads he took and I followed them," said Wirth, further explaining that in some windless parts of the desert, the tracks from Almásy's desert vehicles are today just as they were when made. |
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